Galapagos diving can be described as nothing short of spectacular. It has been said that if Darwain would have had scuba gear, he’d never have left. The Galapagos has many accolades: the world’s second largest marine preserve; one of the world’s top ten dive sites; the last place in the world to dive with large schools of Hammerhead sharks and don’t forget those diving iguanas. No trip to Ecuador would be complete without a trip to the Galapagos thrown in and while a bit expensive for a tour, it is worth every dollar spent.
The Galapagos is a special marine environment known as a convergence zone. Cold water coming up from Antarctica meets with warm equatorial currents causing upwellings of nutrients that feed a massive food chain which keep all those special fishies floating around to dazzle your eyes. And it’s one of the few places on the planet where you’ll see a mix of penguins diving into the surf and pink flamingos congregating on land.
By land or by Sea
The first decision to make when organizing your trip to the Galapagos is whether to base yourself on the land or to take a boat cruise. The economical choice is land based and would lead you to the tourist hub on the island of Santa Cruz, Puerto Ayora. Here you’ll find a huge range of hotels, cafes, and tour companies offering simple day trips from about $100-$120 per day. The problem with land based tours is that you’ll be limited in scope to the sites you can visit. These sites are obviously more impacted by tourists, that being said, they’ll still blow you away. Alternatively, many backpackers, or anyone with a more flexible itinerary, can choose to try and hop-on a boat here. Many tours during the off-season don’t pre-book so you’ll find boats passing through Ayora on their mid-way point willing to bargain for any potential stowaways hanging about.
Off-season travel
If you head to one of the many travel agencies in Quito’s main tourist center, La Mariscal during the off season you’ll find a wealth of agencies offering the ubiquitous Last-Minute Galapagos Specials. Basically, during Galapagos’ prime time: June to mid-September and mid-December through January, you’ll find it impossible to find last-minute deals. But outside these impacted times, you’ll find great deals. A word of caution, though, ask around and consult bulletin boards like Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree for advice on which boats to take and which not to. Remember, expensive doesn’t always equate with better. Some boats, luxury and budget alike might employ a staff that speaks little English and might have little interest in playing the role as the guide.
I suggest checking Galasam Travel. Their friendly staff is VERY knowledgeable and up front about travel to the Galapagos. They offer three of the more budget class boats: the Millennium, and the Estrella de Mar I and II as well as many more luxury class boats. Their agents will not try to sell you on anything and will direct you to other agencies should you want a different class of boat. They can also arrange deals with flights and complete packages including land stays as well. Galasam’s conveniently located in Quito’s La Mariscal at Cordero N24-214 and Amazonas Ave on the corner.
The land of two seasons
The Galapagos experiences two seasons: a “rainy” and a “dry.” Take these terms with a grain of salt. The “rainy” from December to May sees a bit of rain, but ironically the most sun. The air is warmer and so is the water. But while the water is warmer to swim in, there might seem to be less fish around (remember, it will still knock your socks off). The “dry” season, from June to November, is dominated by the colder currents from the south. The cold water brings cloudy days and cooler air temps. But while it might not be as comfortable, the water is teeming with life. Remember those cold upwellings will ignite the food chain. So serious divers might consider the dry season for their trip.
Nuts and Bolts
Flights: Fly from Quito or Guayaquil prices vary season to season. Check the websites of Aerogal and TAME for info on booking flight.
Fees: $100 Galapagos visitors tax, $10 tourist transit card, $41 departure tax from Quito or $28 departure tax from Guayaquil.
When not to go: Mid-December through January and June to mid-September (busy season)
What not to do: Overstay. That transit card serves like a kind of visa stamp. You only have a set amount of time to stay in the Galapagos and should you overstay, you’ll face heavy fines. This limit on tourism is meant to help protect and preserve the delicate balance of this fragile and, unfortunately, decaying eco-system.
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We would love to visit the Galapagos. We were told that it can be less expensive by a lot if you are a “Legal Resident” of Ecuador so we have been waiting until we move there next year. We have also been told about a “Poor Man’s Galapagos” . Can you shed any light on either of these subjects…. Love your blog